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Big Shoal & Otters

  • Writer: Cassandra Smith
    Cassandra Smith
  • Jun 24, 2023
  • 2 min read

Day 4, 24.6 miles

January 8, 2023


When we started this trip we knew that it was the off season and we would be dealing with low water which means not much current. This means that we have to paddle pretty much all day long, besides our one break at lunch, to meet our mileage goals. The low water levels have a plus though, which is that the limestone banks along the river are exposed and absolutely beautiful. Seeing the sun rays reflect off of them in the morning and evening is mesmerizing and the array of holes and caves look like perfect little homes for mysterious creatures.

Today was our first portage around Big Shoal, which is the only "big" rapid on the river. It is recommended to portage anytime of year, but especially with the low water as we would've for sure scraped bottom going over. We made two trips with our gear and then Henry carried the canoe on his shoulders (perks of having a big strong boyfriend). It was a quick walk down the Florida Trail past the rapids, where we re-loaded all of our gear and paddled to the other side of the river to a nice sandy beach where we ate lunch. Later we paddled through some smaller rapids enjoying the current when we saw a family of otters playfully popping up near the bank. They scurried around, dipping in and out of the current, making the cutest clicking noises with an occasional tiny growl. They disappeared as quickly as they came and we excitedly talked about them for a few miles afterwards.

As always we got lucky right around dusk and found an incredible campsite. We set up camp right off of a nice oxbow in the river along the Florida Trail. I walked along it barefoot just to touch a few blazes. I have always loved wild Florida since doing the Ocean to Lake Trail back in 2019 but the Suwannee is making me fall even more in love. I know the Florida Trail is definitely in my future. Broccoli mac and a nice joint before crawling into bed, so tired we're deliriously laughing at nothing and not caring a bit about us and all of our belongings being covered in a layer of sand.


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