The Grand Portage

June 23, 2024

Mile 234.5-251.6 (Lake Memphremagog)

(9.3 miles of portaging)

Woke a few times this morning to it steadily raining and dozed back off until it stopped around 10. We slowly packed up and ate breakfast as the sun came out and dried our tent. We were on the water by 11, both of us feeling unusually tired.

My body felt exhausted for some reason so I sucked down a caffeine gel packet and felt marginally better. Made pretty good time despite going upriver and arrived at the campground 4 miles later in no time. We took out at a muddy bank there and portaged to Mansonville because Cordell had told us there were several downed trees on the river a few miles before town. The portage wasn’t bad at all once the sun disappeared behind some clouds and a breeze picked up.

I loved the walk through Mansonville, we stopped at Owl’s Bread Bakery and got a pork sandwich on a baguette and a cream puff.

As we walked down the sidewalk we had given up on finding somewhere to fill up our water bags and figured we’d have to filter for our portage. We turned down the street to take us to the boat launch and a couple flagged us down from their yard to ask if there was anything we needed. They invited us inside and let us fill our waters up at the sink. We walked the rest of the way down to the launch where we lowered the boat into the water and started loading it when they appeared again and asked if we’d want to stay in their house for the night because they were leaving to stay in Montreal for the night so it would be empty. We couldn’t believe their hospitality and seriously considered staying, especially since it was starting to rain. We decided against it though, we needed to get the Grand Portage done today so we’d be right at the lake to start early morning tomorrow in case of bad weather or wind. Canadians truly know how to make you feel welcome in their country though.

Paddled on the river for a couple easy, winding miles while it steadily rained on us but slowed to a stop as we got out to begin the Grand Portage. It was hard. And muggy. (I could literally see the air). And mosquitoey. And uphill for what felt like forever. I kept thinking we’d finally reached the top but sure enough I’d look up and there’d be another stretch of climbing.

We finally reached the top and started down the other side where a lady walking her dog stopped to offer us to camp in her yard. So sweet! Finished our portage down the road past the general store and reached Lake Memphremagog. There was a very small beach with some picnic tables and a pretty popular boating area and parking lot. We made our way to a picnic table to sit and wait for everyone to leave because technically you’re not allowed to camp here at the lake so we planned to set up as late as possible and hope no one would bother us.

Two old ladies sat at the picnic table beside us and chatted away in French. When they finally got up to leave it was because it had started pouring. I was so tired and angry at everything and nothing in particular. Our gear that was on the picnic table got soaked as I tried to quickly shove it in my backpack. I set the tent up while muttering every curse word I could think of and rain slid down my back and soaked my clothes. When the stupid fucking cocksucking tent was set up I crawled inside and tried to dry it out as best as I could with my damp towel. Henry told me to stay in there and he’d cook dinner outside since the rain slowed and bring it in for me. I had a chicken pad thai Mountain House that was really not good at all. Smoked a bowl to feel a little better, brushed my hair and twisted it into braids and went to bed.

This felt relevant this night 😂