Chafe, Cookie Cabin, Crying

April 10, 2023 - Day 10

mile 172.7-193.3 (20.6 miles)

An early 4 a.m. start this morning to beat the heat and damn I'm glad we did. Even in the darkness of the morning beads of sweat popped out on my forehead and upper lip as we trekked through the valley. As daylight broke we came to a river crossing. We pulled off our shoes and socks and made our way across. I stumbled in the middle and dropped a shoe but Hambone rescued it before it could get swept away in the current. We sat on a rock and ate a quick snack before continuing on in the early dawn light. We hiked back and forth across switchbacks starting the ascent up Mt. Lemmon.

4 a.m. start

The sun rose above the mountains and the heat began. It wasn't long before we came to another creek crossing with a deep and beautiful swimming hole. We laughed with joy and immediately dropped our packs and began stripping down. The water was icy cold and I'm not sure anything has ever felt so good in my life. We each got in twice, coming up gasping as the cold water covered every inch of our hot, sweaty bodies. 

The rest of the climb up Mt. Lemmon kicked my fucking ass. It was hellishly hot, not to mention I had my period and was starting to get thigh chafe. We stopped a few miles from the top so Henry could give me his boxers to wear which really saved me from the incredible pain of my thighs rubbing and sticking together endlessly. 

We took a long break after the steepest part of the climb when we found some shade beside some big boulders next to a clear, cold creek. I took the tiniest cat nap in the shade and ate some snacks. Rinsed out my socks and underwear and laid them out on a hot rock in the sun. 

After this break I put in my headphones and focused on the music instead of the heat and how exhausted I felt. I didn't even focus on the fact that there is literally pizza and cookies at the top of this mountain in the town of Summer Haven at a place called the Cookie Cabin. If we got to the top and the pizza shop was closed I would be devastated so I instead pretended like it didn't exist. Finally, finally, we reached the top. We road walked through town directly to the pizza place. By this time my feet were throbbing and I limped along to find us an outdoor table where we dropped our packs. Tourists eyed us as we headed for the shop and got in line. I knew we smelled terrible and were dusty and dirty but I didn't care one bit. We ordered a pepperoni pizza and a huge chocolate chip cookie with vanilla ice cream on top. I scrubbed my face and hands in the bathroom before collapsing back in our seats outside.

We devoured the pizza in just a few minutes and then the cookie shortly after. I was incredibly full and sleepy but we made our way down the street to the general store in town to grab a few more snacks for resupply. The store generously offered free coffee or hot chocolate for thru hikers so we claimed those and sat outside on a bench sipping them, my head on Henry's shoulder. We filled up our water at the public bathroom in town before hiking out, deciding we'd only go a few more miles to the next dispersed camp spot and call it a night.

The cookie cabin!!

I was hoping the break we'd taken at town in the top would help my feet but as we started hiking again they throbbed in terrible, excruciating pain. I limped along trying to keep up with Hambone before just giving up. I lagged behind trying to keep from crying but eventually gave up on that too and let the tears fall. He stopped, concerned and waited for me, but I told him to go ahead without me. He promised to stop at any promising campsite he saw first. We were on a narrow ridge with not many options but thankfully came to a turnaround on a dirt road called Dan's Saddle where there was a bare spot just big enough for the Duplex. I set it up, still crying while a beautiful sunset bloomed along the ridges across from us. We skipped dinner since we were still mostly full from our pizza. I snacked some, brushed my teeth in the vestibule and laid my head on Hambone's shoulder, fitting myself into the crook of his body while watching the beautiful orange glow outside the tent flap. 

I think I need new shoes. My head keeps trying to tell me that maybe my feet just can't handle this, maybe I can't push miles like this. But the Lone Peak 6s really hurt Hambone's feet on the MST, so maybe I'm having the same issues. Town day tomorrow and I'm grateful.